Thanks for the response!
-Long divided headers, can they be bought, or will they have to be custom fabricated? When I bought the car years ago it came with a RB header that i'll be installing as well, but now i'm intrigued about this other option.
Yea, I was thinking of the RB headers, or something similar. They have one header that's collected before the flange to their resonator, and one that stays separate for a lot longer. I'm not too familiar with other vendors making NA stuff (or aftermarket parts for the FC in general), the 7club is probably a better place to research that.
-I have two Borla mufflers currently, they sound amazing and look great. Not sure if I even have a cat currently.
If you like the sound, then keep them. A high-flow cat won't help or significantly hurt power, especially on an NA, but it will make the car smell a lot better when cold-starting, idling etc.
-Yeah, the 6 port thing is something I don't quite understand, I didn't have an airpump installed to begin with.
It looks like the engine & everything is S4, so the 6 port actuators are driven off of exhaust backpressure, not the airpump. If you don't have a cat & already have very little backpressure, than you may not be opening them at all. A good way to check is to do the "grease test", which I have just shamelessly stolen from the 7club:
"Grease test: Apply generous amount of grease to the base of the actuator rod, where the rod meets the actuator body (s4's rod gets pushed INTO the actuator to open the port). Drive the car around spiritedly, making sure to go past 5k rpm. Go back home, check the actuator.
On properly working actuators, the grease will get smeared all over the actuator rod when it gets pushed into the actuator body as it opens up your ports. If not working, grease will only remain where you applied it."
To get them working if you don't have backpressure or air pressure, there are other ways:
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Login - describes using an electric air pump that you switch on to do it, although I think probably just replacing the actuators with solenoids would be cleaner. You may need to worry about melting the solenoids with the exhaust depending on where you place them tho.
-I do plan on getting a street port, size I'm not too sure yet. So just port-match the lower intake manifold to the engine ports?
I was talking about LIM to UIM etc, just to make sure that when you bolt everything together there isn't a mis-match at the flanges. You don't really want to increase the diameter of any of the runners, just make sure that the flow has a smooth path and won't get tripped up by anything.
-Okay, this 'piggyback' thing sounds very interesting, is it an easy install? Is "The GReddy e-Manage" what you're describing? Link for it below.
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Yea, the GReddy e-manage & apexi SAFC are piggyback ECUs, designed to basically just tweak the incoming airflow signal that the stock ECU receives, making the stock ECU think that you have more or less airflow than it would otherwise sense. Therefore, the stock ECU tells the injectors to spray more or less fuel than they otherwise would, giving you some tune-able control over fuel while retaining all the maps, closed-loop control etc of the stock ECU. You may want to look at whether you can get a system that has its own programmable outputs too, which you could use for switching the 6-port actuators.
