Groll's Baby!!!!

[~Groll69~]

I have been trying to get my idle to set right.  After messing around with it Saturday, looked like some of the issue was corrosion at the connector for the tps.  some scraping and die-electric grease and i think that is taken care of.  I am not sure how to get the 3k warm up to work again.  Is that the thermo wax that is suppose to do that?  That car will not hold idle until its warmed up a little bit.  I am not as worried about the 3k, just want it to hold idle steady.  I have been geting some bounce to the idle at times.  That just comes and goes.  I am wondering if my BAC is giving me some issues.  I will have to try to check it out tonight.

[~Groll69~]

i am getting a weird bouncy idle. sometimes it settles and other times it bounces. this is after finding out the tps connection had some corrsosion that wasnt helping the signal.

i need to try to check the BAC and figure out what circuits blew last night in my emergency avoidance manuver (See krazykreiners post below).  Somehow my radio circuit blew and my door light was flashing randomly on and off.  I just need to correct these two things.  Along with keeping an eye on my oil levels.

Here is Krazykreiner's facebook post:
"My husband is a amazing driver. Tonight on our way home from the mall some stupid girl pulled out into our lane. He quickly went to move into the next lane and she kept coming. He maneuvered over onto the median and was able to keep from getting hit. Thank God nobody was next to us. And of course the woman kept going. And of course we were in his RX7 (his baby). Needless to say I tensed up so bad my body now hurts. But I will take that over being in a accident. I Love You Richard Kreiner"

[pjr]

Way to go Rich!  There's too much good karma in the red rocket for anyone to take it off the road!!

[~Groll69~]

Thanks PJR.

Last night i started to mess with the idle to see if i could get it figured out.  I removed the BAC.  the resistance checked out at 12.3 with is the upper limit of good.  Applying a 12v source to it and it clicks.  there is power going to it from the car.  One test it failed was upon engine warm up, it should have cuased the engine idle to drop or stall when power is disconnected from it.  (that test was done prior to removing and idle adjustment of the car)  I beleive the BAC is on the verge of being bad.  Another thought is my thermowax is bad too (still need to test).  I was able to get the car to run the 3k warm up a couple of times, but it would not do it this morning.  After messing with the idle last night i had it dialed into around 840-860rpms.  There were a few times i had it holding idle within a 5pm range like 1041-1046 as an example.

This morning it didnt want to hold idle and when it did, it was around 960-990rpm.  When it held idle still cold it was at 1050-1060. 

I am still burning through a lot of oil.  I think i may have to crack the engine back open this winter to check all of the seals.  I want to change a couple of things with it anyways like put in the new fd corner springs and go to a solid 3mm corner seal.  I think the 3mm two peice corner seals were to weak.  I may have some side seals to tight or to loose.  I am not sure which.

As for the radio not working properly after sharp manuvering, it turns out it was the fuse, and for some reason it was the 7.5 amp room fuse in the car and not the 20amp audio fuse. 

[~Groll69~]

Time to begin getting Jenny ready to run again.  The Clutch master had started leaking and required it to be replaced.  I got a new one installed.  The battery was completely dead.  I should have pulled it and put it on a battery tender for the winter.  I had to jump the battery to give it enough charge so my charger would actually charge it.  I have it now on a desulfate cycle on the battery charger.  I think I will just need to replace soon. Next step will be to check fluids and re-install the battery.  Then I should be able to start it up.  I am hoping to drive it Friday, if everything works out.

[murz]

Glad to hear she's fixed. I try to store my batteries during the cold months, sometimes I forget though. Any plans for Jenny this year?

[~Groll69~]

yes.  I would like to begin applying the body kit I have.  I also want to pick up front and rear fenders too

step one will be trying to get the oiling issue straightened out

[~Groll69~]

It turned out that I needed a new battery too.  The other battery did not last the winter and a desulfate cycle did not correct it either.  Now she starts up beautifully.  I love it.  Just need to correct the oil usage issue.

[~Groll69~]

Over the weekend I decided to try and figure out my idling issue.  I could never get the idle below 1000.  The idle would also bounce bad.  I decided to try and switch the throttle bodies with another one I had laying around.  As I pulled the throttle body off, I found where there was a bad vacuum leak through the plastic spacer seal.  there was damaged that went all of the way across allowing additional air into the engine.  The orginal throttle body was not holding vacuum across the secondary plates too and it was not even adjusted against the coolant expansion device properly. 

The new throttle body that I installed was adjusted properly against the coolant expansion on the back side of the throttle body.  The vacuum leak was even worse to the secondary plates (so I capped that vacuum line and I am not using the secondary plates ate all).  The OMP lever seems to be operating better and not holding an oil line open.  (So hopefully that solves my oiling issue I have been having)  We managed to set the idle to hold between 760 and 830.  It still gets a little bouncy, but not nearly as bad as it was. 

Fixed just in time for some regular driving until I can get our mazda 6 clutch replaced.  Over all I am very happy.

[murz]

Glad to hear it's working better. I think we should re-adjust the TPS again, that may fix the remaining bounces. Next time we meet up I'll bring my tester with me.

[~Groll69~]

Well my car kept skipping on every little bump.  Pulled off my rear passenger side shock and there is zero resistance to it.  Time for new rear shocks.

[~Groll69~]

The problem is I want to keep the adjustable suspension.

[ITSWILL]

Just go spend a lot of money, problem solved.

[Senketsu]

I don't know if my rear shocks are any good, but I kinda want to go to some good regular shocks on my car to avoid the cost of AAS. If they look good and you want them, you're welcome to my shocks when I pull them off.

[~Groll69~]

Jenny's reear has definitely been neglected.  The nice thing is the rear brakes have operated properly.  The slides are in phenomenal condition pn the passenger side.  The parking brake portion though has rusted a long time ago in place.  Upon seeing that, I decided new calipers are in my immediate future.  I started to try to remove the caliper hardware and the bolts are so seized that they busted on me.  Anyone care to help me finish getting these things off?  I still need to replace the wheel studs too. 

I did remove the shock from the driver's side and that is better.  I can push it down and it will slowly return back up to full extension.  Anyone have a whole rear subframe/control arms etc I can throw on?  Make the effort easier and faster.