Author Topic: Window Relay Modification  (Read 2695 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline ~Groll69~

  • Administrator
  • Rotary God!!
  • *****
  • Posts: 1235
  • Karma: 1
  • Gender: Male
    • Elegant Lady Bridal and Tuxedo
Window Relay Modification
« on: November 10, 2015, 11:26:27 AM »
I have created the window relay electrical schematic for adding relays to the RX7 window switches.  Please review and let me know the proper wire colors to tap into.  I will update the drawing accordingly.  I haven't seen a nice clear schematic that identifies the exact wires that need to be connected to in order to make it work right.  If you made this modification, please check my schematic to verify its correct or explain whats different.

11-16-15 update
1.  The current question is should the relays be supplied with external power feed or can i plice of current window power feed.  (I would think that i could use the current window feed that is already fused)

2.  The next question is should a seperate dedicated ground be added through the flexible door link?  (I think that would be a proper thing to add, but I need to review the stock gounding yet.)
« Last Edit: November 16, 2015, 12:49:50 PM by ~Groll69~ »
"Long Live Rotary"

An RX-7 is like having a slut as a gf! She will love you, but she will also screw around with the guy at the parts store, most of the local cops, your insurance agent, your apex seals, your bank account and your credit card!!!

Offline toplessFC3Sman

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 405
  • Karma: 8
Re: Window Relay Modification
« Reply #1 on: November 11, 2015, 08:20:24 PM »
The diagram is almost correct - first, the wires that you have labeled "to ground?" (connected to terminal 85 on all the relays) should also go to ground through a nice, thick wire so that the voltage from flipping any of the switches has somewhere to go. Also, it looks like you're missing that wire on the pass side "up" relay.

Second - I'd fuse the 12V wire going to the relays on pin 87 for 30 amps or so, just in case you get a short (especially running new wire through the flexible link to the doors).

Third - I'd run 12V to the pass side relays from the same un-switched source as the driver's side relay. This requires running a new wire to the relays, but the way you have it drawn now, the 12V switch on the driver's panel would prevent ANY of the switches from actuating that window, not just the passenger's switch. Again, make sure this new wire is coming from the fused source.

Fourth - The connection from 87A is going to ground, right? Make sure that's a nice thick wire running back to the main chassis or battery, not just going to the door frame. The door frame is very poorly grounded, especially when running significant current through it (like the window motors draw)

Offline ~Groll69~

  • Administrator
  • Rotary God!!
  • *****
  • Posts: 1235
  • Karma: 1
  • Gender: Male
    • Elegant Lady Bridal and Tuxedo
Re: Window Relay Modification
« Reply #2 on: November 16, 2015, 07:34:36 AM »
Your suggesting that a new ground wire be run through the doors?  I deally i want this to be a plug and play module.where it just plugs right into the existing harness, hence where the switch plugs into the harness at.  I will need connectors though to make it happen.
"Long Live Rotary"

An RX-7 is like having a slut as a gf! She will love you, but she will also screw around with the guy at the parts store, most of the local cops, your insurance agent, your apex seals, your bank account and your credit card!!!

Offline toplessFC3Sman

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 405
  • Karma: 8
Re: Window Relay Modification
« Reply #3 on: November 19, 2015, 09:25:44 AM »
I had mounted the relays for each window in the doors, and only needed to run new constant 12V & ground wires to them. If you're only planning on using the switches to actuate the windows (no other inputs to the relays), then you can use the switched 12V & ground going to the driver's side switch for the relays in that door (as you suggested, and these will already be fused). You'll still need to run switched 12V at a minumum to the passenger's door. I'd run a ground wire to the passenger's side too since the doors don't ground very well through the plastic bushings and oxidized hinges/latches anymore.