So, I've slowed down progress a bit. Full time college takes a bit out of my free time. Also, rebuilding a rotary engine is a lot to take in, especially for someone with my basically zero previous automotive maintenance experience. Though, I can't tell you how many hours have been spent reading build threads, looking up how-to's, double checking what it is that I'm even doing, the forums have been my home as of lately, as well as the Haynes manual.
So, as of now, I have 32 days left until I reach my deadline of having this build complete (as in running, reliable etc.). I'm pretty confident I'll reach my goal, how ever, it would be nice to have it running by this upcoming weekend as the 26 and 27th I'll be up in Icecoda Michigan (Oscoda, oops), and it will make the perfect opportunity to break in my engine. So... I'm going to try for that! Even if I don't make my goal, then I'll still continue to work on it. After I meet my goal, I think the next thing to do is upgrade suspension, then body work stuff, I need a new front fender badly, I absolutely hate the one I have on right now, it's also cracked... I found this image on facebook, I think I'm going to try and aim for getting my car to look similar to this one, while staying NA, minus painting the spoiler silver and T2 hood, I think my tint is darker also. I wonder what the wheel and tire specs are though?
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LoginAnyways, after the major assembly was done I took a bit of a break. Finally got off my ass and got to work. This is how I was able to torque the flywheel and front hub assembly. Using an engine stand arm as a stopper, saved me from buying an actual flywheel stopper. Notice the new flywheel? Lightweight Steel Racing beat, with the appropriate counterweight as well.
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LoginNext step was to assembly the front stack and measure end play, I was getting 0.0025 in' until I properly torqued the flywheel then I got 0.002. According to the manual, it was in specifications, so I went with it.
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LoginNew clutch!
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LoginNotice the pulley? Yeah... as an early birthday present I got myself a glimer pulley set. I've read that fabrication had to be done about 50% of the time. Yeah... I had to fabricate the water pump pulley, just used a stone drill grinder bit thing, and walah, it fit! Assembled the front cover, using a gasket and RTV. Then threw the oil pan on, just using RTV great stuff without the gasket, which is something I read on the forums as well. Transferred timing marks over, and set the CAS properly. Turned the engine, and heard the whooosh noises! I'd be lying if I said that didn't excite me. Threw the power steering pulley on and called it a day, the water pump housing is just on it for looks right now... been to lazy to actually seal it down for some reason. Anyways, it looks good, at least to me it does. Also have my new motor mounts as well, my old ones were bad, one snapped in half, and the other is about to.
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Login Forgot to mention, replaced the pilot bearing and seal, throw out bearing, front pulley bolt, and a new thermal pellet from Atkins rotary. There's probably more that I can't remember right now.
Here's a picture of block off plates, OMP and ACV, as well as my painted 5th and 6th port actuators. The LIM is bolted and sealed down, I actually almost forgot to add the sleeves! That could have been bad...
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LoginIt's ready to get installed into the bay really, I want to install the rest (rat's nest, fuel rails, hoses, etc.) once it's in. One thing that's hanging me up a bit is the old previous exhaust pipe from manifold to pre-silencer has 2 nuts that are rusted pretty damn good, I don't have enough anger built up in me to get it, and I've tried everything but heat. I'll have to borrow a neighbor's propane torch I think.
So, from researching pre-mixing, I think it's safe to say I'll be mixing 100:1 TC-W3 2 stroke oil, or one 16oz per tank using 87 octane. Now to find out what type of engine oil to use, so many options. 20w50 perhaps?